Slim Man Style Guide - What To Wear When You Are Skinny & Lean
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There’s tailored and then there’s slim-fit. The type that slices sharp at the shoulders’ edge, then cuts in across the chest, before travelling down the body one button at a time and finishing snugly on the hips. The slim-fit suit is a second skin that serves you well, from the office to the big date.
A superior way to smarten up your tailored wardrobe, slim-fit is the modern alternative to every other baggy suit you’ve owned. Cut narrower, it is the new business get-up for 2015 – if, and when, done right. Luckily, we’ll guide you through it – with the expert help of Melbourne tailor and slim-fit connoisseur, Dom Bagnato and his son Nunzio.
#1 Know What You’re In For
The typical slim-fit suit is just like it sounds – slim. Before trying anything on, expect to face the following: a tapered waist, streamlined and slightly tapered legs, and a narrower point-to-point shoulder measurement compared to regular suits. Of course, the slim style looks especially dapper on men with a lean to athletic build. And while dressing for your body shape is very important, the slim-fit can give any man with an eye for style an updated, trimmed-down shape – even the happy eater.
Dom and Nunzio particularly recommend the slim-fit suit for younger gentlemen, as it straddles the line between modern trends and classic, timeless style.
#2 Streamline the Pants
In menswear, slim-fit pants (in suits or separates) boast a lower-rise than traditional suit pants. The rise is the distance from the middle of the crotch seam (right between your legs) to the top of the waistband. It usually ranges from 7-12 inches and determines where pants sit on your body, which in turn ‘creates’ your waistline. Slim-fit pants have a slightly shorter leg length, while the front of the pants will have flat-front design, rather than textural pleats. The trousers will be slimmer through the leg and feature a tapered bottom, too. This keeps the slim look going all the way from the ankle to the waist to the top of the jacket shoulders.
Despite the close fit, Dom notes, the right tailoring technique offers both a slick silhouette and ample comfort.
#3 Don’t Jeopardise the Jacket
Like the little black dress, the jacket is a must-have in any man’s wardrobe. Slim-fit jackets have a narrower lapel than regular fit and are made with a higher gorge. The gorge or notch is the point on the jacket that forms the ‘peak’ between the collar and front lapel. The slim-fit jacket has a lower button stance (the placement of the top button), which 1. creates the shape of the V on the suit coat and 2. gives the perceived position of the waistline on a suit coat.
A lower button lengthens the look of the body, and rides well with slim-fit as jackets usually have a shorter overall length. Less use of shoulder padding typically characterises the slim-fit, and most will have a single-breasted cut with two buttons rather than three – the standard for traditional suits.
Dom and Nunzio encourage men to have fun with their jackets, and enjoy their versatility while making a statement.
#4 Know How To Accessorise
A slim style goes beyond the components of the suit. The accessories are just as important. “The tie, the pocket square, the watch, the wallet,” Dom advises, “all say style and status.” Go for a skinny tie instead of the wide, business type. A tie too bulky or wide ruins all the prior effort put into the sleek jacket and tapered pant. We love the silk weave tie for texture without the bigness, or the classic diagonal stripe. Crisp cotton shirts promote the best flat-to-chest-and-shoulder fit. Slim-fit is modern, so be brave and try your hand at prints.
A micro-floral or checked pattern gives a little extra kick to an office look. Want more? A tonal pocket square complements the tie nicely.
Video: Four in Hand Tie Knot Tutorial - Step by Step How To Guide
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